An evening in Eilat, on the Red Sea

We are staying a night in “Happy Guest House” in Eilat; we are happy because the room has air conditioning….it is 38 C, feels like an oven outside!

We had just enough time to rush to the mall and top up my phone credit, buy Gary a hat with good sun protection ( as we’re heading to Petra, Jordan tomorrow early morning), and I needed lotion for swollen itchy fly bites on my legs….then stores closed, as it is Jewish holiday Shavuot.

Time too, for a schwarma, yummy roasted turkey- chicken with veggies and hummus in a pita, and a cooling dip in the Red Sea, before the beach closed.

Now, sleep…

Scenes from desert between Mitzpe Ramon and Eilat

Today we drove from Mitzpe Ramon (900 metres elevation) down to Eilat at the Red Sea. Gary drove, and I backseat drove, when I wasnt snapping photos 🙂 The highway is excellent, and it was quite crowded with city folk coming down for Jewish holiday Shavuot, starting tonight.

I love the desert beauty, the wide open spaces, the muted colours, the simplicity. Enjoy the photos!

Abraham’s well in Beer Sheva

 

 

Some biblical history ( perhaps 1600 BCE); you can read in Genesis 21:22-34 about the treaty Abraham made with Abimelech, a local king, concerning the well in Beer Sheva!!

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Some more recent history – the British takeover of Palestine from the Ottoman Empire, 1917, in Beer Sheva. Preparations for big centenary celebrations are underway for Oct 2017 in Beer Sheva.

Visiting this land, we are reminded of the preciousness of life- sustaining water! The purple coloured hoses watering the plants are recycled water.

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Friday afternoon in Beer Sheva

In our white Nissan Micra, jet- lagged Gary drove us safely on the new highway 6, from Ben Gurion airport south into the Negev Desert.

In 1 1/2 hours, we arrived at our air B&B in a lovely peaceful neighbourhood of Beer Sheva. We were very hungry, and our hostess, Inna, walked us down the road and pointed us toward the Old City, across the Beer Sheva river, where she hoped there may be some restaurants open. It was already close to 3 pm and Shabbat was quickly approaching. We walked on a pretty path above the wide river bed ( which had a very small river in it this time of year!), across a bridge and in to the Old City.

Most shops were already closed, or were closing; we bought some delicious cherries and apricots from a fruit stand as they were packing up, and when we asked around for food, a kind man in a coffee shop asked if we ate couscous…..sure, we said!….he walked us over to a small bar which served drinks and Moroccan couscous which was delicious 🙂

On return to the house, our kind hosts, Pavel and Inna, took us to a grocery store and we bought bread, cheeses, tuna and veggies to eat for the evening and next day.

We ate in the cooler evening air on their back patio, and enjoyed chatting with them and their daughter Yael, studying hard for a Mathematics exam.  Their son had just begun his army service and was not home. We  were also introduced to Louis, their white cat!

Gary did valiantly….and managed to keep moving and awake until about 9:30; then slept for 12 hours!!!

Maps

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Above map shows where I was in HaGalil May 21-25:

Kinneret (group- moshava and kibbutz); bike ride from Kfar Kinneret to Ein Gev.

Visit to Naharyim at Ashdot Yaakov; day at Sachne by Nir David ( Tel Amal) with Miriam.

 

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May 26; came from Karmiel in north via train to Ben Gurion airport; met up with Gary! We rented a car and drove south to Beer Sheva, and have spent 2 amazing days here….check next post for pics and stories!!

A day at Sachne; remembering Gidon of Kibbutz Nir David. Pomegranates, and Tel Amal’s history.

Miriam and I drove south from Kinneret to spend the afternoon at Sachne, “warm springs” (Arabic), a water park with several pools of pleasantly warm and absolutely gorgeously turquoise- blue water. The springs continue on in a river that flows through the adjacent Kibbutz Nir David.

39 years ago, a few days after I turned 20, I came and spent a summer on Kibbutz Nir David as a volunteer. My Microbiology prof at UBC had a friend who’d worked there before, and that’s how I made contact…through letter writing in those days, with long periods of waiting for responses! (I recall there may have been one brief phone call too, when someone on the other end just said : “yes, come!”) Somehow, it all came together, and the local bus on route 669 dropped me at the gate of Nir David in late May 1978; i hopped off the bus; entered through the pishpash k’tan and had one of the most formative 3 months of my young life….still find myself reflecting upon that season.

One of my early jobs was being assigned to clean out the kiosk at Sachne to prepare it for the start of the warmer summer tourist season. I spent a week working under the pleasant supervision of Gidon, an older man who ran the kiosk. I recall he did not know much, if any, English, so we didn’t speak much, but the week went well, I scrubbed and swept and organized, and by the end of the week, the kiosk was ready for summer business. Gidon made and served me my first iced coffee…the creamy flavourful light brown aromatic and refreshing drink was an experience still vivid in my senses today!

We volunteers did not frequent Sachne; we had busy work days and the kibbutz had it’s own grassy bank along the turquoise river bank where we could relax and swim. Apart from my week of work there, I only went back once for Sunday night folkdancing.

So coming to the park yesterday with Miriam and paying an entrance fee did not jog any particular memories. I did wonder where the kiosk may have been, but saw nothing familiar.

Miriam and I swam, we ate and strolled along the paths enjoying watching the local families, friends and lovers relaxing in the beauty and BBQing. As the path began to leave the more popular swimming areas, we met an elderly man. Miriam asked him what was further on down the path, and he explained there was a Museum and also Tel Amal, and that we could go and see and circle back. He then told us he’d worked for over 40 years at Sachne in the admission booth, and he’d learned some English, German and Arabic through local and foreign tourists.

My Sachne kiosk experience of so many years ago popped back into my mind, and I asked Miriam to please ask him if he might know a man called Gidon, whom I’d helped at the kiosk so many years ago. “Yes, of course I knew Gidon; he worked at the kiosk for many years!” Then in Hebrew he told Miriam that about 30 years ago, Gidon had died….someone was hunting birds on the kibbutz and accidentally shot and killed him 😦

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My friend Miriam found this entry on Gidon Valtera on Nir David’s website: nirdavid.org.il

דף הנצחה לגדעון וולטרה ז”ל
(12/05/1921 – 08/08/1985) כא אב תשמ”ה

It turns out Gidon was of Italian Jewish descent…no wonder he made such awesome iced coffee!!

The gentleman continued on his way home down the path. Miriam and I followed slowly and pensively; my thoughts cast back to the summer of 1978…shedding a tear for Gidon and wondering about others I’d met and worked with during those months and what paths their lives had taken….

We passed beautiful pomegranite trees, and looked briefly at Tel Amal, admirimg the extremely challenging work of raising a stockade and tower settlement overnight!!

http://www.gemsinisrael.com/the-gems/the-beit-shean-and-jezreel-valleys/stockade-and-tower-tel-amal/

Yesterday was a day off work for Miriam, and she had requested we go to Sachne, a lovely place to sit on the grass, relax and swim, and enjoy continuing our visit together.

Remembering Gidon and then actually hearing from a passerby of his passing, and being reminded of the risky and determined early pioneers in the Tel Amal community, somehow connected the 1930’s, 1980’s and now 2017!

We drove home with a stunning view of Mt. Gilboa in the late afternoon sun and fields of hay and sunflowers in the long shadows of evening falling. A quiet family evening in Karmiel, with a home cooked meal and re-connecting with Miriam’s son Eshkhar was a gentle way to end a day of reflection on the challenges and experiences of our lives, and the reminder that one day they will come to an end.

Local history, reconnecting and relaxing with Miriam :)

Miriam and I met at Israeli folkdancing at the Vancouver Jewish Community Centre back in 1991; she was in Vancouver studying at UBC for that one year. We kept in touch over the years via email and facebook. We finally met again 22 years later in 2013, and now again in 2017!

We pick up very naturally where we left off…being both mothers of boys and sisters in faith, and learning more of one another’s family roots, we never lack for conversation.

With Miriam’s car, we visited Naharyim, near Ashdot Yaakov and the site of the first hydroelectric plant in Israel (1930s) at the junction of the Yarmuk and Jordan Rivers. Also the memorial site of 7 young Jewish girls tragically shot and killed on a school trip there in 1997.

http://www.travelujah.com/blogs/entry/The-Beautiful-and-Tragic-story-of-Naharayim-on-the-Jordan-River

Our guide, with his dog “Chubby” recommended we go to relax at Rob Roy, a park very near Kibbutz Kinneret, where we stayed. How surprising to see totem poles and canoes, dreamcatchers and many North American native carvings and traditions along a shaded peaceful shore of the Jordan River!!! Obviously a popular place for young people and families to come and hang out, all free, even cups of tea and coffee….and we were offered a juicy and welcome slice of watermelon 🙂

Dinner later, again on the Jordan; delicious cauliflower risotto and lamb kebabs with tahini and amba, wine….and talk, talk , talk 🙂

Walking home to our cabin on Moshava Kinneret took us over an hour… in the dark, we kept missing the correct path past the cow sheds and recircled several times…it actually felt good to let our lamb kebabs settle and we enjoyed the cool night air.

Eventually directions from a friendly late night kibbutz jogger redirected us back to the “pishpash ketan”- the “little gate” which every kibbutz seems to have….and we were soon sleeping soundly, resting up for our next day….

Yesterday, biked to Ein Gev, 28 km round trip. Pleasant and safe bike path on east coast of Kinneret. Hills of haGalil to west; Golan Heights to east. Once at 80 year old Kibbutz Ein Gev, had a St. Peter’s fish n potatoes takeout, thankfully avoiding hundreds of tourists in dining room…yikes!! Highlights: a long solitary, peaceful bike-ride with stunning views and 3 dips in Sea of Galilee….balm to body, mind and spirit, and dream come true :) And thank you for your prayers and well wishes for my safety travelling alone….